DAGSHAI, The Weekend Wonder




Amitabh Shukla 

Dagshai in Himachal Pradesh may only be a small hill station or rather a small Cantonment town, perched on top of a sunny hill on the highway to Shimla, but when you decide to take a detour and come here and spend a few hours, you are bound to enjoy the bounty which nature has to offer.

While going to Shimla from Delhi or Chandigarh, you cross Dharampur, a small Himachal town on the highway known for its eating joints, the most popular of which is undoubtedly the time tested Giani Da Dhaba. It may have been demolished now due to widening of the road and a new structure coming up in place of the old but not long ago it was difficult to find a seat here on the weekends. Ask the old students of numerous public schools around these hills and they will swear by its food. Now, a lot of other eateries have sprung up here, including those of popular food chains, and doing decent business but the work on four-laning of the road has ensured that this lively place now looks more like a dusty, war torn zone.

Anyway, just after you cross the main crowded market of Dharampur which also has a heritage railway station, there is a detour on the right to Dagshai. A signage of the Cantonment Board welcomes you to Dagshai, set up by the East India Company of the British, to escape the intense summer hills of the plains, 30 kms away.

In fact, so conscious were the British about their comfort that they set up three Cantonments nearby — Kasauli, Subathu (the birthplace of Gorkha regiment) and of course Dagshai in close proximity. Then, a little ahead is Shimla, the summer Capital of the British, which also has a significantly large military setting. Whenever I visit these areas, I wonder what the strategic importance of these Cantonments was in those days which prompted the British to set them up in the first place. The reason has to be only one — salubrious climate which reminded the British of their homes and the weather in England.

Of course, for travelers like me, Cantonment Boards like Dagshai, Subathu and Kasauli still are islands of cleanliness, devoid of commercialization which still preserves the old world charm. You can still find and romance with the glory of a bygone era in these three Cantonments in close proximity.

Back to Daghshai, what attracts a traveler like me is silence. This is what brings me back to this place every now and then. When I was in Class I or II, the teachers used to shout “pin drop silence” whenever the naughty boys were at play in the classroom. I never understood the meaning of pin drop silence in school, despite the teachers berating us and forcing us to do so. But here, in Dagshai, just choose any place off the stiff climb, sit there and all you would hear is “pin drop silence”. Even if you drop a pin, you could hear it falling here, literally. Of course, chirping of birds, the melody of flowing breeze, dancing leaves on the numerous trees as the gentle wind caresses them…these cannot be considered sound. This is nature’s magic.

There are no hotels to stay here. Dagshai is not meant for that. But even for a routine tourist, the place has several sightseeing options. The most prominent is a British era Jail — a formidable structure, this is popularly called the Cellular Jail of north India with 54 high security cells. Maintained by the Engineering Wing of the Indian Army, you can see how tough a jail life was in the British era for the Indian freedom fighters.
Irish soldiers, who served in the British Army and revolted in 1920 as part of a freedom movement back home in Ireland, were kept here during their trial. The mutineers were shot dead in a Capital punishment and buried in a cemetery in Dagshai. One of the Irish heroes James Daly, who was buried here for 50 years after taking part in the mutiny and then being shot  as a punishment, got a new resting place in his home country of Ireland in the 1970s. His mortal remains were taken to Ireland with military honours and he is still a celebrated hero back home.

Indian freedom fighters were also kept in the jail which has a wooden floor. This meant that even the slightest of sound was captured by the sentry who could raise an alarm. Four Indian freedom fighters of the famous Komagatamaru ship, all ex-servicemen, who were refused entry in Canada in 1914 had to return back where 20 of them were arrested on arrival and sent to the Dagshai jail. Four of them were hanged.
When I reached this jail and a small museum on a Sunday, it was closed for the afternoon. But the immaculately dressed friendly army sentry promptly opened the doors, saying that very few visitors come here.  He placed the visitor’s book for my comments. I simply wrote, “Had never seen a jail in my life before. I hope the world becomes crime free and jails become a thing of the past in the next century”. I could not even spend half an hour here and to imagine that freedom fighters spent years and were even awarded Capital punishment, was indeed a nightmarish experience.

The museum in the jail compound houses old photographs which recreates the history of the place and some memorabilia from the British period. The architecture of both the jail and the museum are typical British in green color which not only jell with the woody surroundings but also the entire material used has been procured locally.

Over to the cemetery, not used now but well known for several spooky stories built around it. The spooky stories started when the Irish soldiers were executed and buried here, triggering local rumours about their ghosts moving around. There are also local stories of unrequited love and untimely deaths which gave birth to a different genre of ghost stories. Old timers swear that they used to hear unfamiliar sounds.

During my brief visits to the cemetery twice in the recent past, all I could hear on the road above the cemetery was extreme silence—Nothing else. This was the final resting place for several army British officers and soldiers, forcing me to think how they could not even go to their birthplace for their final rest. Born in United Kingdom, died in India…that is what it should have been written on the epitaph. As the cemetery was neglected for years, stones and the written words are missing in most of them. I took a walk and only found squirrels surprise me with their deft and swift movement, colorful birds finding a perfect mating place, a hairy street dog watching me carefully from a distance. There was no ghost to encounter. 

There are boarding schools here, one for the army and at the other a public school and as part of learning nature, treks by school students in uniform are common, including in the cemetery area. I envied these kids. What a wonderful place to be in a boarding school—amid hills, nature, birds and clear blue sky devoid of smog and fog in the winters and intense heat and humidity of the winters.

The St Patrick’s Church, now hardly used came up with the small Cantonment town itself and is a typical colonial architecture, now attracting curious visitors, keen to know their history and heritage. Thick pine and oak trees ass to the charm of the place as you decide to take a walk all around the place and stare at the architectural marvel of a bygone era.

After spending the day roaming around all over the quite Catonment cum hill station, sipping tea at a couple of tea stalls, munching some snacks and also closing your eyes for a quick nap on one of the numerous benches and shades, overlooking wonderful valleys, drive down to Kumarhatti on the other side of the hillock where Dagshai is located. The stiff down hill drive will take you to the crowded market and all of a sudden you will realise how important is solitude to a human life. How important it is to spend time in nature's company...How important it is to realise the value of silence and nothingness which envelops you in these marvels of nature. (November 20, 2017)

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